Rwanda is a country still marked by its past. But little by little it has begun to write a new stage, opening its beauties to the world, currently being one of the African countries with the best economic growth. An important part of this new time is the bicycle. So much so that in 2025 it will host the UCI World Championships, being the first African country in history to do so. We cycle through the diversity of its landscapes and people, in an unforgettable adventure. 

It was any given weekend in May in Collserola, Barcelona. Xabi and I hand in hand when, suddenly, (although we had already talked about it dozens of times) "and why not Rwanda in August?" After already riding long bikepacking routes in Spain, we were looking for a more remote place to discover and motivate us, where nature and naturalness prevailed. So, my answer was yes. Miles and miles of red sand awaited us. 

Rwanda by bike did not take us by surprise. We had read about the country, we had seen videos of travellers on motorcycles and bicycles who had already visited its diverse landscapes. We also knew about its crude and recent history. We were aware of its characteristic and demanding orography. After all, Rwanda is known as "the nation of the 1,000 hills", due to its notably mountainous profile. 

Three months after that crazy conversation, but one that has marked us forever, not only do I not regret it, but I recommend anyone who shares these concerns and cycling philosophy, load up the bike and head to Kigali. 

Rwanda by bike: the preparations 

From there comes the most interesting part. All this after hearing the click of the automatic pedals, setting off into the unknown and discovering a country through its hundreds of trails and roads. The preparation part is divided into three verticals: paperwork, route and set up of equipment and bikes. Although the route was agreed, even in the most remote place between Nyungwe National Park and Lake Kivu, we kept improvising it. 

An avalanche of landscapes 

The design of the route was one of the most exciting things. We searched for information here and there, squeezed the zoom of Google Earth to find the best alternatives by gravel roads and trails. We wanted to do our private off-road Tour of Rwanda for 11 days, in a country where you only need to set foot in it to realize that the bicycle is a part of its DNA.

As we rolled down the first few red gravel tracks, we realised there was something we couldn't see on Google Earth. It was the positive explosion of laughter and shouts of joy from the hundreds of children, who ran out to meet us shouting “Good Morning muzungu/abazungu (white man)” and of whom it was impossible to get tired. They are the future of this friendly country and even climbing the most broken and exhausting ramps of the Bumba Trail, the most demanding section of the Congo Nile Trail, they made us smile. 

It is difficult to summarise in a few words what were 11 days of bikepacking adventure on our gravel bike, with 1,045km of distance and 18,000m of positive elevation gain. Winding red gravel roads and trails, views of snow-capped Mount Karisimbi, the ruggedness of the Congo Nile Trail - a cycle route along Lake Kivu recognised by bikepackers from all over the world that mixes trails and singletracks, leafy river valleys overloaded with rice and tea fields or roads with a 'World Tour' asphalt that move along the coast of Lake Kivu or that cross tropical forests where the green takes on multiple shades. 

The paradise of bikepacking and adventure 

Also, some “critical” moments. Like when we shared 30 km with a group of semi-professional cyclists from Rwamagana: “Les Amis Sportifs”. They took a murmur from me: “Xabi, either loosen up, or I'll stay on the descent”. We cross trails that run parallel to giant volcanoes of more than 4,000 m altitude, to finally suffer the heat and dry air of the savannah near Akagera. 

To delve deeper into the route you can enter my komoot collection, where you will find a summary of each stage. 

“The explosion of colours in its landscapes, the breath of the bumba trail, “good morning abazungu”, the descents through red slopes like fire. The union between the kindness of the people and the diversity of the landscapes makes you activate all five senses”

The constant rush of feelings I experienced in Rwanda came from all directions. The chaos of trucks, motorcycles and cars was mixed, releasing smoke as they passed, which seemed to stop at any moment. The tough people transporting kilos and kilos of bananas up the hill on their bikes without giving up. 

The next venue for the World Cycling Championship 

Also, the fusion of smells of the jungle, nature, wood smoke and stubble burning. The crops of rice, tea and coffee, which form its landscape on slopes and terraces, the jungles watched over by huge volcanoes where you can imagine families of gorillas. Animals that would not be there if it were not for the tenacity of the rangers and protectionists of the species, like Dian Fossey herself, star of the movie “Gorillas in the Mist”. 

As I said at the beginning, we had done a good previous job of searching for information, but you never expect a bike experience as positive as the one we have had. Even more so after hearing the prejudices of the people and their warnings: “But where are you going? That is very dangerous!” 

We were aware of the country's cycling culture beyond the professionals. The day to day of the Rwandan people runs smoothly on the wheels of their steel fixed gear bikes. On a professional level, the Tour of Rwanda is a competition that is growing and becoming very international in recent years. And, for those who are not yet aware, in 2025 Rwanda will host the UCI Road Cycling World Championships. The first country in Africa to host this centennial event. I assure you it will be epic. 

Turns and more turns to the set up, steel vs carbon 

Our bike set up would also deserve a separate section because we have all been there and we know how difficult it is to decide on the material for an adventure like this without abusing the “just in case”. The rainy days gave way to hot and humid days, when hydration and salts ran like wildfire and raincoats were stored in the saddle bag, which would not be opened until the last day. 

It is important to keep in mind that Rwanda is a country of seasons. Four to be more exact - two dry and two rainy, divided into short and long. I do not recommend embarking on this route in the rainy season, because the tracks and paths become skating rinks where my frame clearance was at the limit. To the point of having a good time removing mud at 2,800 meters altitude in the rain. 

It should also be kept in mind that we were not the typical tourists who go on safari in jeeps that look like buses, heading to Akagera National Park or tracking gorillas on the lush slopes of the Virunga volcanoes, the border between the hectic Democratic Republic of the Congo, Uganda and Rwanda. 

“The population tries to heal the wounds of the genocide after 28 years. We stayed for 15 days and we felt safe and welcome at all times of day and night, in the capital and in the most remote village”

The necessary material for a trip like this and why it would take us a while to explain. Regarding our bikes, Xabi and I went our separate ways, but in the end we both reached Kigali. Xabi has mechanic knowledge, as well as he is a rider from Irun with a lot of cycling class. There exists a photo of him sharing the podium with the Movistar Team rider Gorka Izagirre, back in his amateur racing days and he can say that Juanma Gárate once fixed a puncture for him in one of those typical outings with the older group. 

Xabi decided on the strength and toughness of a British-made bike, the steel Fearless Warlock in size M that he assembled and painted himself based on his preferences and the components he believed were most suitable for this trip. Meanwhile, it was clear to me that I wanted to go on this trip with my 2018 Cannondale SuperX and size L carbon frame. Choosing a cyclocross bike for such a demanding ride may draw some unwarranted attention. But in the end, its performance and lightness did not fail me throughout the journey. Except for a couple of times where the mud caught on my frame and tyres. 

One of the things that surprised us the most was the cleanliness of the country, both in the cities and in the villages. There was no chewing gum on the floor. There were no discarded bottles or plastic or cans in the gutters. We knew that Rwanda has a ban on the use of plastic bags, because everything is delivered in recyclable paper bags. 

This environmental responsibility comes from the post-genocide era, in 1994. We should take good note of it in the West, because in the end this way of understanding life and everyday life means love for our land. But this country goes a step further and to this awareness for the environment is added an event that left us impressed, even more so when seeing it live. 

Umuganda, Rwanda Community Saturdays 

It was the last Saturday of the month. This day, which may seem insignificant to us, in Rwanda and in its local language, Kinyarwanda, is called UMUGANDA (which means "union in a common purpose"), the Community Work Day, one of the policies introduced by the government Rwandan to help reunify the country after the genocide.

From 8:00am to 11:00am, businesses close and traffic grinds to a halt as citizens across the country go to their neighbourhoods, shovels and hoes in hand, to try and create an environment a little better than the month before. After knowing this, we are no longer surprised by the good condition of the frontyards of sand of the houses, of their porches, of the sides of the tracks that cross the towns. All of this gave us a strong sense of community and teamwork. 

The desire of the people to please the traveller, to show them that the country and its people are for the task of opening up to the future and overcoming the past, can be seen at multiple times. For example, when we were in Ruhengeri, at the foot of the Volcanoes National Park and we couldn't find an ATM. We asked a policeman and suddenly we have four people giving us directions, one of them in perfect English. On his way back from the cashier he asks us if we had found it, to which we respond with satisfaction in the affirmative and he tells us with a wide smile and pride: “Good. Good feedback, good feedback!” 

“Chinese companies are involved in improving the country's infrastructures, asphalting roads or improving them, in case the rains have damaged them. What is clear is that the tracks of Rwanda are, for us, a gravel paradise, but for rural areas and their communities they are the arteries that allow them to move forward”

A country to experience by bike 

The memories that we take home with us from these 11 days of bikepacking are unbeatable. The feeling of exploring the country, of filming and discovering places that in another mode of travelling it would not be possible to see and get to know, places invisible to tourists. Crossing lakes by boat or rivers on foot because the bridges are down and cannot be raised again. Stay in modest, but paradisiacal places. Camping on top of a hill at an altitude of 2,500 m. Sprinting up the mountain with dozens of excited children behind you shouting “3. 2. 1. NOW!” 

I am convinced that the passion of this country to escape from its past and to roll towards a promising future, despite the obstacles, will be a success. Because the dozens of tracks that cover this territory and that for us have been a paradise for gravel will take them wherever they want. 

Hopefully one day cycling and this mode of travel will join gorilla tracking and safaris as one more reason to visit this small country in East Africa. A place that strives to ensure that when we search for “Rwanda” in Google, its sad past appears on the tenth page of results and for this I stick with the word that comes to mind when I think of this beautiful African country.