BACK

Travel Gravel - Riding home from Norway

I’d always wanted to explore Norway, Sweden and the surrounding countries and this summer an opportunity arose for a 10-day trip. In my opinion there’s no better way to explore a new area than by bike and I love a one-way point to point journey, which is why I found myself in Stavanger, Norway, with no return ticket. My plan was to cycle back to the UK from Norway, ticking off as many new countries en-route as I could.

Norway

My route through Norway was predominantly on small roads with some gravel. I crossed the mountains to the east of Stavanger and was instantly struck by the beauty, although that awe was quickly surpassed by just how clean and pure everything appeared. The water running from all the streams was crystal clear and I had no problems drinking it untreated. Another nice thing about Norway is their widespread adoption of electric vehicles – for bike riders, this means no more smelly fumes from passing traffic or loud engines disturbing the peace. Wild camping is allowed in Norway and a particular highlight was camping on a golden beach beside a lake on the second night of my trip. Although I only had a small glimpse of the country, I’m incredibly excited to return.

Sweden

The border between Norway and Sweden was so non-descript that I didn’t realise I’d crossed the border until I look down at the road surface. Sweden was all about the rolling gravel roads through forests and along the banks of lakes. Gravel riding can take many different forms, but for me, those Swedish dirt roads encapsulate what gravel is all about: going fast off-road covering great distances. I found Sweden to be an extremely friendly country. While the people of Norway were a little reserved, I was immediately drawn into conversation with local Swedes in the first small town I stopped in. Sure, it was a pretty standard conversation: ‘Where have I come from, where am I going? Yes, that’s a long way and yes, it’s a gravel bike!’ but all the same, when you’re riding solo for consecutive days, it’s always nice to break it up.

Denmark

After the ferry crossing from Gothenburg, I arrived in the North of Denmark, immediately taking to a series of dirt roads and beaches that skirted along the rugged north coast. However, upon turning south I realised I was in for a long slog - the wind was howling and it was directly in my face. The rolling terrain was admittedly very pleasant, but the slow grind into the wind somewhat dented my moral as I approached the German border.

Germany

The trains in Germany are excellent – I know this because the wind cracked me! I had made such slow progress for the past couple of days that I was way behind schedule, not to mention tired from the constant effort. The train journey got me back on track and thankfully helped me avoid the worst of the wind as I now turned westwards. The northern part of Germany is predominantly luscious green agricultural land, no doubt watered by the rainstorms blown in from the North Sea. I managed to dodge a few of said storms, but you can only ride your luck so often without getting a good soaking. Thankfully the wind, which was now a crosswind, dried me out quickly. The landscape didn’t change much across Germany, however the riding was pleasant with excellent segregated cycle paths tracing the path of the roads. I was able to turn my brain off and enjoy turning the pedals as the end of my journey began to loom.

The Netherlands

If you want a car-free bike ride, then you can’t beat the Netherlands. Germany makes a good effort, but the Dutch have the gold standard in cycle networks. My route took me towards Amsterdam before turning southwards to catch the ferry at the Hook of Holland. A long shift on my penultimate day found me in the city of Almere and the treat of a night in a hotel. Arriving in the city late at night, I was very impressed by the cycle superhighway passing right through its heart – and even more impressed by the fact that bikes have right of way over cars. The final morning of the trip made the slog of the last week worth it. The sun was out and I got a long-awaited tailwind as I cycled along the North Sea coast. I made the early afternoon ferry with an hour to spare, content in the knowledge that I’d earnt my seat at the all-you-can-eat buffet. 

I covered a lot of ground in the 10 days I was on the road. Some would say that’s too fast, but I like to see the world go by and to experience lots of different places. There are some parts I’ll probably never see again, but other places – such as Sweden and Norway – that I am really excited to go back and explore more expansively.

You may also be interested in: