Autumnal colours. Champagne gravel. Saunas. Brown Bears. Northern Lights. If this sounds like your idea of gravel riding heaven, then perhaps Ruka, located in the far north of Finland, could be a future gravel destination with your name on it. Phil Gale, a confirmed Scandophile, headed there in October and has fallen head over heels for the place. Read on to find out more about this incredible destination.
My GPS confirms that we are on the right road. Ahead, an arrow-straight 12 km of gravel stretches off screen until the next junction. We pedal on, the rich black gravel leaving an odd green stain on our tyres. Surrounded by nothing but trees, the only sign of human life is the occasional glimpse of a cabin nestled next to a lake flickering through the yellowing hues of the forest. We're only a few kilometres from the Russian border - so close, in fact, that one of the bears we’re headed to watch could easily wander out of the silent forest that envelops us. I’ve ridden in some remote places before, but Ruka, tucked away in northeast Finland, feels truly wild.
When it comes to European gravel, Finland and its neighbour Sweden operate in a different league. The sheer population density in central Europe leaves few regions - outside of some select corners of Spain - where you can truly ride in the wild. Step into Finland or Sweden and you’ll experience a kind of gravel riding usually reserved for North America: endless, uninterrupted kilometres where you can disappear into the landscape without encountering another soul. And if Sweden offers vast gravel riding, Finland has the upper hand, with its finer, almost champagne-like gravel that makes for a smoother ride.
Southern Finland has gained serious gravel cred over the past two years, thanks to ardent promotion by cities that know their gravel, like Lahti, and events such as FNLD GRVL (stylishly vowel-light, as is the trend in gravel culture). But heading further north the gravel is lesser known. This is where Ruka, a world-renowned ski resort over 800 kilometres north of Helsinki in Eastern Lapland enters the frame. With over 900 kilometres of gravel riding mapped out in the area, it was an easy decision to accept the invitation to check it out.
You know you’re in for a proper adventure when the journey involves smaller-than-usual planes. As we come into land at Kuusamo airport, a short transfer from our base in the ski resort of Ruka, the sun is setting under the clouds that we’ve just dropped through. I watch the light play with the propeller next to me and embrace the deep red that is reflected on the wet world below us. It’s only an hour’s flight from bustling Helsinki, but you can already sense the remoteness of where we are.
“Once you’ve done central Europe and are used to travelling, you can start looking towards Finland,” says Janne Haarma, CEO of the Ruka Kuusamo Tourist Association, with a grin. “It’s the same for gravel—you cut your teeth in the south, and then come north for something different.” The former freeskier has grown into a keen gravel rider, making him the perfect person to lead the promotion of this unique destination.
And weirdly, it does feel unique, even though the gear is the same, the bikes are the same, and we’re still using komoot to get around. But Ruka’s gravel scene feels far removed from everywhere else we’ve ridden. There’s a unique cultural flavour up here - an understated, independent blend of west meets east - that’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. And yet, despite the solitude, there’s an admirable focus on making gravel riding accessible to all, from seasoned riders to complete beginners.
“As a ski resort, Ruka is known as a family-friendly location within Finland and internationally.” Janne continues. “We want to bring that same ethos to our gravel – not only designing a network of routes that allow adults with experience to enjoy the terrain here, but also newcomers, families, friends, whoever.”
This all-inclusive mindset is refreshing, especially in a gravel scene that sometimes feels dominated by gatekeepers. Here, it’s aimed at all riders on all bikes. Whether you're after long, immersive days in the forest or just short, fun loops on bikes that lead to a family activity like river rafting, then Ruka checks the box.
Over the course of our three days, we sampled a variety of routes and activities, all designed to show us the full breadth of Ruka’s offerings. The weather was characteristically autumnal - perfect for cool-weather training, as we quickly discovered. The first part of day 1 brought rain as we ventured north of Ruka for lunch at House of Northern Senses, through forests ablaze with autumn colour. Despite the wet conditions, the gravel delivered, and the bad weather only added to the experience. At home, it might have been easy to skip a ride, but here, you gear up and head out—the weather enhancing the connection to the rugged landscape.
On the way back we looped into some of the XC ski tracks that circled back to Ruka. That was a blast, think tight twists, rolling hills and that elusive gravel flow. These 20-odd kilometres that kept us on the pedals were a highlight of the trip, offering a break from the vast forests, as we zipped through open bogs and areas too wild for larger roads.
Day 2 was a route out to river rafting. The weather was better, so it was only the splash from the rapids that got us wet. Finland, we later learned, is as renowned for its rapids as it is for its gravel, and while rafting isn’t something we’d typically consider on a gravel trip, it was a refreshing change of pace. The experience really highlighted the variety of activities on offer in the area, for those with a lesser focus on gravel. Another standout moment was the ride back from the rafting, where we experienced some amazing views to the north of Ruka, followed by another sauna, and then the Northern Lights.
By Day 3, we were in for something entirely different - a morning loop to the south of Ruka, offering a riding style more akin to the ski tracks we'd enjoyed earlier. With thinner forests and more technical twists, it was another smile-inducing day. After drying off over lunch (more rain, of course), we then had on a longer, point-to-point ride that ended with the most unique ride destinations we’ve experienced: bear watching just two kilometres from the Russian border.
But perhaps even cooler than the bear sighting itself was the wild, is-this-real-pinch-me backcountry ride to get there, an experience that was intensified by the greyed-out weather, dark, fresh gravel, and heavy evergreen trees that towered above us. Now with several bears padding around outside the cabin where we sat, surrounded by such vastness and quiet, only a few hours by plane from central Europe, it felt surreal and magical.
With our limited time in Ruka coming to a close, we left with a sense that this trip was to be continued, next time perhaps taking the night train from Helsinki then linking Ruka-Kuusamo to somewhere like Rovaniemi. Finland's charm - its complex language, non-stop sauna-ing, and warm hospitality - combined with Ruka’s wild, rugged gravel, had made this an experience like no other, but we know it can be even wilder. Sure, the weather can be unpredictable, but that’s part of the allure. And with summers heating up in central Europe, the cool, the combination of fresh Northern air and great riding feels like a no-brainer.
You can find out more about Ruka by heading over their website - https://www.ruka.fi/en/cycling/gravel