“Long-distance bikepacking journeys are the jewels in adventure cycling’s crown. The simplicity of pushing the pedals, witnessing the land change, sourcing sustenance on the fly and camping wild for days on end is a visceral representation of everything I love about riding bikes and spending time outside. It’s bloody hard to beat!” The opening few lines of Chris Hunt’s paean to the Torino Nice Rally grabbed our attention an impressive manner. Read on if you’d like to find out why the TNR should be on your gravelly bucket list in 2024.
In 2022, I joined the Torino Nice Rally (TNR), which depending on your choices (more on this later), involves 6-700 kilometres of tarmac, gravel and historical military access roads and around 15-20,000m of climbing, following the Alps south to the Mediterranean coast.
Starting in Turin, among the shadows of the mountains to its northwest, the route takes on a series of Alpine passes, weaving along the Italian French before descending down into Nice. As described by founder and route designer James Olsen, ‘It’s not a race, just a challenge to finish and a question of what to ride and where to focus your efforts.’ Long-distance journeys by bike weren’t a new concept for me. I’d dabbled in ultra-racing, taken on bike tours spanning weeks at a time and co-created a route in the UK too. But, exploring this region so rich in history, together with so many others, was a profound experience. And, dramatic as it sounds, I think injecting more fun and more autonomy into the experience, the Torino Nice Rally ultimately changed my relationship with journeys by bike.
So, with the above in mind, I’m here to make the case as to why, in my humble opinion, the TNR might just be Europe’s best bikepacking adventure and why (if you haven’t already) you need to ride it.
1. Attention to Detail
At the heart of any good bikepacking adventure is thorough route crafting. Considering the TNR is not his day job, it’s hard actually to comprehend James’ commitment to creating such a well thought out route while providing riders with so much information. From the entry process, followed up with route updates and additional information via email, James ensures all riders are equipped for the road ahead, including alternate terrain options for different bike setups, shortcuts and bail-out points with zero pressure to ride it a certain way. There’s an effort to get everyone together for a pre-ride meal the night before departure and a WhatsApp group for riders in which they can offer support during their journey. Ultimately, you’ll feel well-informed as to what lies ahead and a real sense of community as you depart. Kudos to James for this.
2. Community
Speaking of which, a huge part of the appeal of gravel and adventure cycling lies in its sense of community. Shared stoke, shared routes, shared laughs. And I think perhaps more than any other event I’ve been a part of, it’s really obvious how much this concept weaves through the TNR. Let me explain.
I signed up to the rally with my usual partner in bikepacking crime, Ben Wormald, and from the off, we immediately found ourselves in a web of new pals, many of whom have since become big parts of my life. From meeting my first rider on the coach, a group at Gatwick and then in Turin airport too, we created a small initial squad in the airport with five others, building our bikes before riding together into the city centre.
The night ahead of departure is marked by a big, shared dinner in the Piazza Giambattista Bodoni in Turin, which is a fantastic opportunity to meet other riders from all over the world and potentially form a group to ride with. Then, as with any mass start event, you’ll naturally find yourself paced with other groups of riders with whom a shared coffee, lunch, camp spot or a simple acknowledgement at the right time can mean the world.
Over the time that’s since followed, I have met up with nearly all the riders whom I had significant encounters with, be it for a coffee, a beer, a weekend away in North Wales, working abroad on new projects together or a DIY rally in the Brecon Beacons (just to recreate the TNR vibes). Now, I even live in the house of someone I got to know as we slowly scaled the never-ending gravel climbs (thanks Alice).
3. It’s Not a Race
Races are another key pillar in adventure cycling. But they’re not for everyone.
For a lot of us, racing can provide a format to take on a challenge greater than we might ordinarily be inspired to. Personally, despite at times obsessing over them, I’ve never fully understood my place in ultra-distance racing. I’ve got no right in trying to be competitive for any kind of position that’s worth repeating, instead aiming for a middle-of-the-pack kind of finish.
And there’s certainly no shame in that, but why not instead aim to really enjoy a route on your own terms? It can still mean big, challenging days, but it can also mean being kinder to yourself, leaning into social encounters, taking time over a three-course lunch, camping somewhere extraordinary rather than pushing on. The fact that no one cares how long you take, or how you ride it, ultimately allows you the time to make more meaningful experiences and make more friends.
4. Little Peru
This was a place I repeatedly heard and read about before setting off. Truth be told, I didn’t really know what it referred to. Part of me I suppose was keen to preserve the surprise. Skip to point five if you don’t like spoilers! Situated atop a high plateau at about 2200m, this section earns its nickname thanks to the prominent rocky peak which punctuates the view. While there is also a tarmac climb leading to get there, we opted instead for the lengthy hike-a-bike under the watch of the machine gun bunkers which guard the Unerzio Valley. Tough, steep and hot, it definitely didn’t come easy. But with the support of each other and minus the kinds of pressures which often come with long-distance riding, we took our time and absorbed the views, sure to keep each other’s carb, sugar and water levels topped up as we went.
With 35 km of the most scenic gravel imaginable, this has to be a highlight for most riders. But to be honest, it’s not the riding which really made this place memorable for me. This I owe to Refugio Gardetta. Arriving at the Gardetta Plateau mid-afternoon, having only ticked off 47km we had every intention of continuing on for what remained of the day. But, in this Alpine meadow, in the sun, it soon became clear the only logical option would be to kick off our shoes, order a jug of white wine and soak it all in.
What ensued over the following hours is probably my fondest memory from any bike adventure. As the light changed the form and mood of the surrounding peaks, we welcomed in other rally riders as our table numbers swelled steadily, sharing stories, hugs and course-after-course of delicious home-cooked refuge food before setting up our tent immediately outside, under some of the best stars I’ve witnessed.
5. Ride it Your Way
What that night on the Gardetta Plateau really highlighted for me how individual the Torino Nice Rally can be. Along the six-hundred-odd kilometres, riders are faced with a series of route choices, perhaps informed by setup, timings available, how the body holds up or simply preference on the day. That often means a choice of tarmac or gravel and straight-up hike-a-bike on several occasions.
Play then also with your approach to sleep and food and not only can you pick and choose the best bits to suit you, it also means you could ride various editions of the rally and have a completely different experience each time.
6. Grand Tour Cols
While much of the route is defined by varying textures of gravel, there is also a large portion of tarmac. During a ride of this distance, this is welcome, especially when they’re famous climbs featured in the world’s greatest bike races. From the Col Delle Finestre on the first day, the infamous Col d’Izoard, a Tour de France classic, the Col Agnel which marks the highest point in the rally and has featured in the Giro d’Italia a number of times, these incredibly long and beautifully crafted roads will prove satisfactory bucket-list ticking off for any road racing fans. They may just leave you wanting to return on a road-slaying machine (minus the bags).
7. Via Del Sale
Another section of spectacular winding Alpine gravel, the Via Del Sale is a historic salt traders' route built by the Italian military, peppered with a number of forts and bunkers along the way.
One of the longer off-road sections, it can be tough going at times and definitely suited to those with more off-road capable set-ups. It can be avoided by taking the much shorter road descent from the Col de Tende, which depending on weather conditions could certainly avoid a long and testing, perhaps even dangerous day. But while I haven’t ridden both options, I’d say the Via Del Sale is not one to miss, if you can help it!
Located at 2079m, is the stunning Rifugio Don Barbera, which would make for a special place to spend the night along the Via Del Sale. Starting the route early in the morning with perfect conditions, we got to the shelter early afternoon, which made for a memorable lunch break and an excellent opportunity to connect again with several other riders, with views stretching out over the valley beneath.
8. Alpine Nights
Wild camping isn’t for everyone. And often it’s just not that practical after a long, hot day in the saddle. But with a bit of careful planning and good weather conditions, you could find yourself camped with some of the most spectacular Alpine views available in Europe, perhaps alongside a stunning glacial river for a wash. There are also some incredibly well-serviced mountain refuges as well as campsites explicitly welcoming TNR riders. For me, one of the nights that really stood out was meeting an Italian farmer just beyond the Strada Cannoni, another long, rough section of Alpine gravel following a lengthy climb up the Colle di Sampeyre. After a bit of back-and-forth with the help of Google Translate, he welcomed us to camp on his land. We set up our tents in a neat line and watched as a distant electrical storm calmly swept along the valley.
9. Victory Swim
In my experience, almost all cycling adventures are made 100% better by ending with a swim. And the French Riviera has to be in contention for a top ten location for such an activity.
After a long day descending from the Alps' southernmost ski stations, what better way to cut through the glamour of Nice by piling up our bikes on the bustling Plage des Ponchettes and diving into the calm blue waters of the Mediterranean?
10. Free Beer
Arguably, the second-best way to end a ride would be with free beer. Once again, the organisers of the TNR have come up trumps with hooking up all the riders with a couple of tokens to whet their whistles upon arrival at Brew Dog Nice where, for several days, riders gather to share tales of glory and adventure mishaps.
11. A Good Cause
Bike events have always been worth big money and the gravel scene is no different. As one of Europe’s original bikepacking events then, with barely any entry fee, well-serviced travel options from around the continent and the freedom to approach the ride however you please, the TNR remains a refreshingly accessible option and the best part is it helps support a very worthy cause.
In return for a GPX file, patch, brevet card and all the info you’ll need to take on the TNR, all the organisers ask for is a suggested donation of £15 directly to Smart Shelter Foundation who are building schools and hostels in Nepal in response to the 2015 earthquake which devastated swathes of the country.
Considering then, these reasons above and far more, the Torino Nice Rally is incredibly good value and you can be sure that by riding this ridiculous route, you’ll not only have the time of your life, but alongside the support of event sponsors komoot, Cafe du Cycliste, Kona, WTB and Brewdog, you’ll be helping to support a fantastic cause which genuinely is changing lives for the better!
If you're interested in finding out more about the Torino Nice Rally, head over to their website