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Travel Gravel - Bikepacking the Isle of Wight

The Isle of Wight might only lie 6 miles (9km) off the south coast of the UK, but like anywhere that you have to get to by catching a ferry, it still feels like an adventure. Nunziella and Alessandro from The Bike Challenge headed there recently with a couple of friends for a weekend of bikepacking and sent in this great write-up.

Bikepacking, at its core, is a pursuit of freedom. For our latest escape, we set our sights on a classic: the Isle of Wight. My partner, two friends, and I decided to loop the entire island over a weekend. But this wasn't a tent-and-tarp expedition. We chose to travel light, opting for the comfort of B&Bs instead.

The key to our light-footed journey was a Carradice Colorado saddle bag.. Supported by the included robust rack, the 17-litre bag was a black hole of efficiency, swallowing all our clothes, snacks, toiletries and even a pair of flip-flops. This setup meant we could cover distance without being weighed down by bulky gear. Our adventure kicked off in a great B&B in Portsmouth, perfectly positioned to catch the early morning ferry to Ryde.

Day 1 - Landmarks and unexpected challenges

The ferry crossing to Ryde was a quick 20-minute affair, a gentle start before the real climbing began. Almost immediately, the road pitched upward, leading us inland. 

Our first official stop was the Garlic Farm and Pedallers coffee shop, a delicious spot to refuel. Nearby, we stumbled upon a quirky honesty grocery box, which provided a good laugh, especially the single toilet roll priced at £1.50. Soon, we were on familiar trails, including a ford that had once been the site of a peaceful picnic.

Heading west on Route 23, the journey became a series of gates and diversions before we hit the challenging chalk Ridgeway. The reward for our effort was a breathtaking panorama of the island's white cliffs. 

A well-deserved ice cream break at Freshwater Bay preceded a short but brutal climb to the Needles, where we took in the iconic lighthouse and its dramatic cliffside setting. The path led on to Yarmouth for a coffee on the pier and then to the Newtown nature reserve. It was here that our friend Alessandro swore he saw a seal, a claim we’re all pretty sure was just a wishful identification of a very large seagull.

The final leg of the day, a bumpy and gate-filled slog towards Ventnor, threw a new challenge our way, a territorial bull in a field. After a quick stop for a pint and some garlic bread, we passed the miniature village in Godshill (closed for the day) and tackled one last off-road section through Freemantle Gate. 

A thrilling descent into Ventnor marked the end of the day's ride. We celebrated with a pasta carbonara and a well-earned night's sleep.

Day 2 - The easy road home

The second day felt like a gentle unwind after the previous day's exertions. We started in Ventnor, heading west to see the St Catherine's lighthouse in Niton. 

Our route north to Newport was a mix of off-road trails and Route 23. A couple of wrong turns led us down narrow, nettle-lined bridleways with a few steep sections, a good reminder that even a "gentle" day can have its moments.

Lunch was a highlight, a fantastic meal at The Globe pub in East Cowes, where live music and fresh fish made for a perfect pit stop. 

From there, we rode south through Newport and off-road again towards Sandown, before reaching the coast and a brief visit to the Culver Down beacon. The coastal road then carried us smoothly back to Ryde.

Thanks to our flexible ferry ticket, we hopped on the next available crossing, saving precious time and getting us home to London in time for a proper dinner. It was a perfect trip, showcasing the Isle of Wight's incredible variety and proving that bikepacking is as much about the journey as the destination.

If you would like to follow in the tyre prints of The Bike Challenge crew, you can find their routes here: 

The Bike Challenge

A cycling blog about cycling, travel, and cycling-related content. Follow us for bikepacking adventures, gravel shredding, mud swimming and the occasional road riding!

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