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Gravel Inspiration - Escaping Winter – A gravel riding adventure in Malta

Malta might not be the first place that springs to mind as a gravel riding destination. It’s better known for its rich history, Mediterranean food and endless sunshine — although the last two sound pretty appealing for gravel riding too…. Keen to hold winter at bay a little longer, Timo Rokitta recently headed to Malta (and its smaller sibling islands) in search of gravel riding adventure.

When the first frost at home taps on the window like an uninvited guest and the roads turn into slippery slides, life becomes tough for gravel riders. Thick gloves, frozen noses, salt on the paths - none of this is exactly what you dream of when all you really want is to be outside, clear your head and chase along crisp trails. So: escape forward. Or rather - southward.

Malta, this small sun-soaked gem in the middle of the Mediterranean, is just a short flight away and offers exactly what you crave in late autumn and winter: mild temperatures around 20°C, dry days, plenty of light and a relaxed, sweetly Mediterranean ease that makes you shift down a few gears the moment you arrive.

But anyone who immediately thinks of beach loungers and cappuccino breaks is only half right. Because Malta has another side - one that seems perfectly designed for gravel riders. At first glance the island appears compact and densely populated, but after just a few pedal strokes a network of hidden tracks, natural paths and narrow country roads unfolds, running like pale veins through the sparse golden landscape. This is exactly where a gravel bike feels at home: wide tyres, chunky tread, the sound of gravel under the tyre - music to the ears of those who prefer the rough to the smooth.

"You wonder why you haven’t used this simple trick much sooner: just outrunning winter."

You roll past ancient stone walls, through quiet valleys and miniature villages that look as if someone brought a Mediterranean picture book to life. And again and again the sea flashes between the rocks - a deep blue that glows even brighter in the winter sun.

Suddenly, time is abundant. And while drizzle at home is slowly turning into freezing rain, you’re sitting on a sunny terrace after your ride, helmet casually next to you, legs heavy and satisfied - and you wonder why you haven’t used this simple trick much sooner: just outrunning winter.

Barely have we crossed the island - something that truly happens faster than brewing the first morning espresso - before we’re already standing on the wild west coast. Traffic fades to a distant hum and we roll along narrow lanes framed by the typical stone walls that have stood here for centuries. Behind every bend, dusty, bumpy, glorious tracks branch off - a perfect off-road playground for grown-up kids.

From the dramatic Dingli Cliffs we drift down to Marsaxlokk, that fishing village that looks as if someone spilled all the colours of the Mediterranean at once. The brightly painted luzzu boats bob in the water and anyone visiting on a Sunday will experience the place even more intensely: market stalls full of treasures fresh from the sea, spices in the air, a lively mix of voices blending with the sound of waves.

"The coastline here is wild and rugged as well, and our gravel track climbs steeply uphill."

But beware: northern Malta is in no way inferior to the south. The coastline here is wild and rugged as well, and our gravel track climbs steeply uphill. Along an old, half-ruined road we reach a fishing village that seems like a leftover film set - and that’s exactly what it is. Popeye Village, the original set from the cult film starring Robin Williams, lies dreamily in the bay. Today, anyone can breathe a bit of sailor’s air there.

Further northeast, on a narrow peninsula, everything suddenly becomes quiet. Hardly any tourists, just wind, sea - and a few caravans that look strangely organised. When we stop, a friendly man explains: filming. A French crew is shooting The Count of Monte Cristo here. It seems that Malta is an incredible backdrop not only for gravel riders.

" We discover a café so close to the sea that you can taste salt on your tongue while drinking your cappuccino."

We eventually follow a wide gravel track that winds along the beach and leads us into a small village. There we discover a café so close to the sea that you can taste salt on your tongue while drinking your cappuccino. A perfect place to park the bike, take off your shoes and think: this is what gravel happiness feels like.

There are places that seem simply made for gravel biking - small islands where dusty tracks, lonely country roads and spectacular views weave into the perfect adventure. Gozo and Comino, Malta’s smaller sister islands, are exactly that. A few minutes by ferry and the world looks different. Gozo feels calmer, more original, almost mysterious. The scent of sea and warm stone hangs in the air. A short climb brings us onto the plateau, where pale limestone tracks lead through terraced fields. The landscape feels vast and handmade at the same time.

"Pedalling along the edge of the cliffs brings a sense of freedom that’s hard to put into words."

We pass through golden villages, roll through the narrow valley of Wied il-Għasri, follow paths shaped by centuries of agricultural work. The surface changes constantly: gravel, dry clay paths, smooth rock. The sea breeze accompanies us everywhere. Along the northern coastline, spectacular views open up. Below us, massive limestone terraces tumble into the sea; above us, the sky shines. Pedalling along the edge of the cliffs brings a sense of freedom that’s hard to put into words.

Around Dwejra the scene becomes almost surreal. The landscape remains dramatic: rock, water, wind and trails that look more like natural footpaths than roads. Here the gravel bike shows what it’s really capable of.

From Gozo it’s just a short hop over to Comino. Tiny, wild, almost deserted. Perfect for gravel riders who love solitude. No roads, only trails and narrow tracks leading through a dry, fragrant landscape. On both sides the sea sparkles. The air smells of wild thyme.

We stop at the viewpoint overlooking the Blue Lagoon, which looks almost indecently beautiful outside the main season: turquoise, clear, framed by pale limestone. We continue to hidden coves and to old fortifications like St. Mary’s Tower, which watches over the island. The wind plays with our jerseys, seagulls cry, our bikes crunch softly over gravel. Otherwise: nothing. No cars. No rush. Just us, the bikes and silence. It feels as if time moves slower here.

"No cars. No rush. Just us, the bikes and silence. It feels as if time moves slower here."

After several weeks of escaping winter, our legs are tired, our skin sun-browned and our minds clear. On our last evening we sit by the sea. Malta, Gozo and Comino glow in the golden light as if telling us: come back. And we know: gravel biking here isn’t just a vacation. It’s a different tempo. A different way of breathing. A small piece of freedom you take home with you - even when frost is already tapping on your windows again.  

 

komoot have created a collection of their favourite off-road trails on Malta and Gozo which should be a great starting point if you fancy an adventure of your own on the islands.

Timo Rokitta

Timo is an über keen gravel rider based in Germany. He's ridden all over Europe and mixes competing in long distance gravel and bikepacking events, with social gravel rides. He's an event organiser and can be seen riding on either a Moots, an OPEN UP, an Allied Able or a 1970s folding bike converted for gravel use!

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